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From Truly Victorian:

This is a pattern for a buckram hat frame, to be covered with fabric. It has a tapered crown, and narrow brim. It perches lightly on top of the head, slightly forward, and held in place with hat pins.

Four crown heights allow for a wide variety of styles. Made with millinery wire, the hat is very durable and holds a good shape. We provide directions for one method of covering the frame during making up. There are many ways to cover a hat frame, however. Feel free to experiment with fabrics and folds to get a really professional look.

The Short crown is suitable for 1870-1884.
The Regular crown is suitable for 1883-1885.
The Tall crown is perfect for 1884-1889.
The X-Tall crown is for 1886-1888.